Mills High top back removal (no key)

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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby mrslot1 » Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:16 am

if you are in the chicagoland area, I pick them, and rekey with new old stock key,
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby par4n1 » Fri Dec 11, 2015 3:13 pm

Thanks everyone. While the Bears are my football team I am 1000 miles from Chicago land....DRAT. I have lots of advice and even more time. SO i think i will look at it and continue to ponder. I have stopped prying thats for sure. And to see anything while shining a light through the escalator glass other then nickles is impossable. What do they say "The hunt is half the fun". other then picking drilling may be in the future its just such a shame but as a post read at least with a new lock I will have a matching key.
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby RickHector » Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:41 pm

Greetings Par4,
I would like to chime in on this tread and offer another alternative. I might add that I have done the following technique a couple of times with great success.
If you look at your High-Top you will find 4 cabinet bolts that hold the top casting in place. If you carefully drill out the head to the rear two bolts and then push the remainder of the bolt through the cabinet. This will allow you to tilt the top casting just a bit, but it allows enough for the door to release from the bottom of the cabinet. If you drill the bolt heads very carefully you will not hurt the cabinet. Then you can reach into the cabinet through the gap created with the door loose and release the latches that hold (lock) the bonnet in place and remove the bonnet and back door all in one piece. You may have to use a long screwdriver to reach the bonnet release levers. The lock can then be removed to be rekeyed. Note that you need to drill out the back bolt to the upper casting on each side. By following this procedure all you need to replace is two cabinet bolts. Trust me, this works.
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby altort » Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:51 pm

Well you have gotten many different opinions on how to get in to your slot, ultimately it's up to you to decide the way you want to go, just one last bit of advice on the different ways that have been recommend to you, as far as drilling the lock, that should be your last option as once you drill it there is no going back, yes there usually is locks available, most have been re keyed and even though there is nothing wrong with that if it's done properly there are quite a few bad locks out there that have been butchered to work with an other key, also if every one that had a missing key drilled out their locks eventually these locks will be harder to find as the supply will eventually dwindle to nothing, I never have and never will drill out an original lock, but if you do decide to drill out the lock use a sleeve around the drill bit, you may need to walk your drill around to hog out the lock and a sleeve will keep you from damaging the opening on the the door for the key.

An other one of your options was to break the escalator glass to get to the lock plate screws, this option would work but most likely there is a security plate covering the screws, but if you try this way a couple of things you should do first is to use a glass cutter to score the glass in a couple of places to promote more of a controlled beak, then put tape over the glass to keep the pieces of glass together, use an automatic center punch were you scored the glass with the glass cutter wile the slot is tilted forwards, than carefully remove the pieces of broken glass, now if you have a borescope you can look inside real easy other wise use a small flash light,

An other option was to crack the base, this could be tricky, if you get a nice clean break the repair would be easy, but wood is un predictable on how the grain runs and it could splinter or break along different paths making the repair more difficult, if might require the removal of the base from the cabinet and you might also need to refinish the base to hide the repair.

An other option was to grind/drill out the two carriage bolts that hold the bonnet latches in place, with masking tape tape up around the head of the bolt to help protect the wood, don't tape over any of the decals as the tape might lift them off up on removal but use heavy paper to cover the side of the cabinet to protect it from scratching, using a dremel or like tool to grind the round head of the carriage bolt flat so your drill is less likely to walk, use an automatic center punch and mark the head of the bolt, use nice quality drill bits
and you will go through the top of the carriage bolt in no time, you might want to use a 1/8'' bit for a pilot hole than switch to a 1/4'', you only need to go deep enough through the square of the bolt than use a punch to drive the remainder of the bolt through in to the cabinet, check your progress wile you are drilling so you don't drill further in than you need to, use a drop of cutting oil to keep your bit cool and cutting smooth but don't use to much oil so it runs on to the cabinet as it could stain the wood.

Ultimately getting the lock picked is the best way, they are tricky locks to pick, I have not been able to pick one but I have a friend that can pick the mills locks so I have never really tried to hard, have you actually taken your slot to a lock smith or just called them? An old school lock smith if you can find one in your area
should be able to pick that lock.

Well good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby SLOT DYNASTY » Sat Dec 12, 2015 1:57 am

Well, It appears that all bases have been covered, in relation to your locked-up Mills HighTop.
1st choice is having the lock picked. 2nd choice is drilling the lock. 3rd choice is the way that 'RickHector' explains above, and was the exact same way,
that I was suggesting 'mechanic' contact you by phone to explain. It is the way that would cause No damage, other than replacing a couple of bolts, as
long as you are careful. I never had to do this myself, because if I didn't have the correct key from my stock, I was lucky enough to have an 'old school'
locksmith that could pick them. I have been able to pick several types of locks, but never mastered the one in question here. Good Luck.
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby par4n1 » Sat Dec 12, 2015 8:15 am

I believe I will drill the carriage bolts from the bottom. Im certain I can do it without dammage to the base. Im just a little concerned because ive never seen the inside of one or the exact attaching procedure from the bonnet to the machine. And lastly that there is enough room for be to get my hand inside it without putting the bonett it too much of a bind.

I will look at some vids to gather views and information to figure it out.
Thanks to everyone the time and effort you take is very much appreciated. I will post pictures of my project. Today is the day I will open the machine!!
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby par4n1 » Sat Dec 12, 2015 8:15 am

I believe I will drill the carriage bolts from the bottom. Im certain I can do it without dammage to the base. Im just a little concerned because ive never seen the inside of one or the exact attaching procedure from the bonnet to the machine. And lastly that there is enough room for be to get my hand inside it without putting the bonett it too much of a bind.

I will look at some vids to gather views and information to figure it out.
Thanks to everyone the time and effort you take is very much appreciated. I will post pictures of my project. Today is the day I will open the machine!!
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby nvmos2 » Sat Dec 12, 2015 10:54 am

par4n1 wrote:I believe I will drill the carriage bolts from the bottom. Im certain I can do it without dammage to the base. Im just a little concerned because ive never seen the inside of one or the exact attaching procedure from the bonnet to the machine. And lastly that there is enough room for be to get my hand inside it without putting the bonett it too much of a bind.

I will look at some vids to gather views and information to figure it out.
Thanks to everyone the time and effort you take is very much appreciated. I will post pictures of my project. Today is the day I will open the machine!!


par4n1:
I live close to where you bought this machine.
I have the same model in my collection;
if you are back in my area, you are welcome to examine the insides of my machine before you start drilling.
If you want to do that, send me a PM with your contact info.

Jim
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby par4n1 » Sat Dec 12, 2015 2:38 pm

Thank you Jim. I may take you up on the offer.
Marc
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Re: Mills High top back removal (no key)

Postby par4n1 » Sat Dec 12, 2015 2:56 pm

If you look at your High-Top you will find 4 cabinet bolts that hold the top casting in place. If you carefully drill out the head to the rear two bolts and then push the remainder of the bolt through the cabinet. This will allow you to tilt the top casting just a bit, but it allows enough for the door to release from the bottom of the cabinet. If you drill the bolt heads very carefully you will not hurt the cabinet. Then you can reach into the cabinet through the gap created with the door loose and release the latches that hold (lock) the bonnet in place and remove the bonnet and back door all in one piece. You may have to use a long screwdriver to reach the bonnet release levers. The lock can then be removed to be rekeyed. Note that you need to drill out the back bolt to the upper casting on each side. By following this procedure all you need to replace is two cabinet bolts. Trust me, this works

Are you speaking of drilling out just this bolt on each side?
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slot7.png
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