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MONTI wrote:Caille used a hydraulic pump for the timing clock and after sitting for a long time they can bind up!
It's sometimes caused by low fluid in the pump.
Here's what you can do about it, without completely dismantling the device:

1) Remove the three screws that secure the pump to the frame and pull the cotter pin connecting the crank arm, and remove the pump.
2) Unscrew and remove the timing screw which sticks out sideways from the pump casting.
3) With the timing screw-hole stem pointing upwards, insert a small plastic funnel into the hole.
4) Add Dot 3 brake fluid (which is a reasonably close match to the original stuff) in small amounts while turning the crank arm back and forth, until bubbles no longer rise into the funnel. Fill it up all the way, until fluid backs up in the funnel instead of all draining into the pump as you push the crank back and forth.
5) Replace the timing screw, and try pushing the crank arm back and forth-- it should offer much greater resistance in one direction than the other.
6) Replace the pump into the slot machine. Turning the timing screw clockwise should slow down or even stop the cycling of the slot machine, while turning it counter-clockwise even a little can speed the cycle greatly. That is your only adjustment option.

Also servicing the hydraulic pump assembly is rather straightforward as shown in the link below;

https://www.flipjuke.fr/regulateur-hydr ... 03436.html

It is in French and you may have to use your browser's translator to read it but it has great breakdown photos!

Hope this helps.
MONTI

MONTI wrote:Also servicing the hydraulic pump assembly is rather straightforward as shown in the link below;

https://www.flipjuke.fr/regulateur-hydr ... 03436.html

It is in French and you may have to use your browser's translator to read it but it has great breakdown photos!

Hope this helps.
MONTI

marsonion wrote:

MONTI wrote:Caille used a hydraulic pump for the timing clock and after sitting for a long time they can bind up!
It's sometimes caused by low fluid in the pump.
Here's what you can do about it, without completely dismantling the device:

1) Remove the three screws that secure the pump to the frame and pull the cotter pin connecting the crank arm, and remove the pump.
2) Unscrew and remove the timing screw which sticks out sideways from the pump casting.
3) With the timing screw-hole stem pointing upwards, insert a small plastic funnel into the hole.
4) Add Dot 3 brake fluid (which is a reasonably close match to the original stuff) in small amounts while turning the crank arm back and forth, until bubbles no longer rise into the funnel. Fill it up all the way, until fluid backs up in the funnel instead of all draining into the pump as you push the crank back and forth.
5) Replace the timing screw, and try pushing the crank arm back and forth-- it should offer much greater resistance in one direction than the other.
6) Replace the pump into the slot machine. Turning the timing screw clockwise should slow down or even stop the cycling of the slot machine, while turning it counter-clockwise even a little can speed the cycle greatly. That is your only adjustment option.

Also servicing the hydraulic pump assembly is rather straightforward as shown in the link below;

https://www.flipjuke.fr/regulateur-hydr ... 03436.html

It is in French and you may have to use your browser's translator to read it but it has great breakdown photos!

Hope this helps.
MONTI

Wow Monti-- that sounds exactly like something I would say!

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5710&p=20492


Well, I guess it is something you said!
Had a Caille customer a couple of years ago that had timing pump problems and your wording was so on point I had pulled it and sent it to him!
I had also placed it in my Caille folder and apparently without credit to you, MY BAD!, I pick up a lot of information in various locations, original manuals I make pdf copies of, my own shop experience, the many sites on the internet and apparently from you as well! LOL Sorry About the Plagiarism!
But they do say "Imitation is the Best Form of Flattery" LOL



Seriously, the refill-through-the-timing-screwhole method is just a quick-and-dirty means I came up with for getting old, partially-drained Caille pumps functioning right away, because you sure can't get a decent cycle out of a '30s Caille when the pump is low on fluid. Yes, tearing the whole thing down for a complete refurb is certainly indicated in many cases, such as when fluid is percolating out the top... but since the pump was never meant to be taken apart-- and the seals were cold-worked and even peened together tight at the factory-- a full-blown overhaul of the pump can be a pretty tall order for a beginner. Also, I've seen plenty that didn't leak at all after the screw-hole refill, so that has saved me a needless chore more than once.

In answer to the question, whether it would be better to drain the original fluid (through the aforementioned screw-hole, presumably) before adding the Dot3: it's certainly an option. I had some of the original fluid analyzed once, and came up with light oils, glycol ethers and alcohols... it's brake fluid! It's an old (and very smelly) formulation of brake fluid, and it makes an excellent paint-stripper. Since modern Dot3 mixes seamlessly with the old stuff, just never saw any need to drain the residual fluid. I guess I just like the idea that some of the original stuff is still in there... but draining and replacing it would make just as much sense. It's your call!

MONTI wrote:

Well, I guess it is something you said!
Had a Caille customer a couple of years ago that had timing pump problems and your wording was so on point I had pulled it and sent it to him!
I had also placed it in my Caille folder and apparently without credit to you, MY BAD!, I pick up a lot of information in various locations, original manuals I make pdf copies of, my own shop experience, the many sites on the internet and apparently from you as well! LOL Sorry About the Plagiarism!
But they do say "Imitation is the Best Form of Flattery" LOL