If you are using an automotive type white grease, that could very well gum-up on you
over time, because that type is usually made for high-temp & high-friction use, like on
wheel bearings, and engine parts. If you are playing your machines 24/7, and the mech.
parts are really hot, then you can use it. Ha! For a bit less play-time, I use a white lube
called Lubraplate. Have been using it for years, with no problems. I also use a small acid
brush for application, as it has stiff bristles, and small enough to get into tight areas.
As for your fastener question.........as much as I hate to give away my trade secrets!
I guess it's time that I can pass a few on to others. I have always saved old original screws,
that I have taken off things that are no good, and I am tossing out. Mainly all sizes of wood
and machine slot-head screws, but only if the head is in good shape. As a restorer, I have
always cleaned and used all the original fasteners from every machine job, and will replace
any bad ones from the boxes of originals, when I can. There are also many different sizes
and depths of shoulder screws used in machines. I have a large supply of them as well, but
there are times when I have to clean-up the head surface, and file the slot, of a badly
damaged one, that is an odd size.
As for using NEW fasteners - Most items available in hardware supply stores now, other than
stainless or brass, are from China, or wherever, and are cheaply plated. They may look OK
in your finished job, but not as good as original. Many of the newer slot-head screws, will
generally have a shallower slot, and your driver will slip easier, bunging-up the slot. And by
all means, DO NOT use Phillips-Head screws on any of your vintage machines. If you need to
use the newer screws, I will generally hit the heads with a power wire wheel, which usually
removes the cheap plating job, and the heads will tend to tone-down with age, making them
look more original. You will never see the results of this, if you are doing a machine to sell.
Then again, if it is for a quick sale, you would not be spending your time with all the little
details that I use above. This advice is Only for the serious collector, that is keeping their
machines.
On another note: There are some early machines that used blued screws in their construction.
One off the top of my head, are the Decatur "Fairest Wheel" models. Most people have not
noticed this, as from age, the screws become rusty. I first noticed it years ago, when I was
taking one apart, and saw the bluing on the hidden threads. That is when I started ordering
boxes of different size blued wood and machine screws from my supplier. That is the only
way you would be able to get them now, if at all, as they are phasing out quickly. The only
stores that I ever found an item like this in, was an old Mom & Pop hardware store, that had
some stashed in the back room.
If you need blued screws for a special job, and can't find them, then you will have to get the
new stuff, and sand the plating off the heads, then make a visit to your local gun store, and
get a bottle of gun-bluing, to make your own. I have had to do that on occasion, as well.
Now, how many others are willing to pass along a trade secret or two of theirs? I'm listening.
Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:41 am